Kuching Travel Diary: Best Sarawak Laksa & Dinner at Lepau

Penang gets most of the credit when people talk about Malaysian food. After spending a full day eating through Kuching, I think that reputation is due for a serious challenge. This is Vincent's hometown, and he brought us to the right places.

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Morning: The Best Sarawak Laksa in Kuching

Our first stop was Choon Hui Cafe, home of the famous 126 Laksa. Locals consistently pointed us here as the one to try.

We ordered the "Special" Sarawak Laksa, which comes with larger prawns and eggs. The soup is perfectly balanced: spicy enough to have a real kick, but not so much that it overwhelms everything else. Rich, layered, and completely unlike any laksa you will find outside of Sarawak.

To go with it, we ordered the Teh C Peng Special, a three-layer iced tea that is a classic local pairing. Sweet, cooling, and exactly what you want next to a spicy bowl of noodles.

Controversial take: I think it might be better than Penang Laksa. I am saying this having been to Penang. Kuching deserves the conversation.

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Checking Into the Sheraton Kuching

After breakfast we headed to the brand new Sheraton Kuching, which had just opened in February 2025. At check-in, Vincent's Marriott Platinum status got us a complimentary upgrade to a Junior Suite.

High ceilings, a massive soaking tub, a beautiful walk-in shower, and the staff decorated the bed with a towel swan display and flower petals for our honeymoon. The hotel felt genuinely grand in a way that a two-month-old property with no wear on it just does.

While Vincent napped to recover from the morning heat, I went up to the Executive Lounge on the 22nd floor. The evening service was running when I arrived: finger foods set out pre-portioned, including duck, scallops, and noodles. Beautiful space with views over the city.

For the full hotel breakdown, see the Sheraton Kuching Review.

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Dinner: Lepau

For dinner, we met up with some of Vincent's friends at Lepau, a restaurant known for authentic Dayak and Sarawakian cuisine. The ambiance is warm and the menu is built around local ingredients that you will not find at most restaurants in the region.

We ordered most of the signature menu between the table.

Midin (jungle fern): A local plant you will not find outside of Sarawak. Stir-fried with a savory anchovy sauce, it has an incredible crunch and a texture unlike anything I have had before. Order this.

Umai (raw fish): Sarawak's answer to ceviche, packed with local spices and small chilies. I did not expect Malaysian food to be this sharp with heat, but the flavor completely worked.

Manicai with egg: A simple, comforting local vegetable dish. Good contrast to the bolder dishes at the table.

Buttermilk squid: The squid was cooked perfectly. Very soft inside with a rich, milky, savory seasoning. One of the better squid preparations I have had.

Asam soup: Sour and refreshing, built on a strong lemongrass base. Good for cutting through the heavier dishes.

Lepau costs more than a hawker centre. What you are paying for is the quality of the ingredients, the care in the preparation, and an ambiance that actually makes the meal feel like an occasion. Vincent's local friends, who have lived in Kuching their whole lives, ordered enthusiastically and cleaned their plates. That tells you what you need to know.

If you are going to Kuching, put Lepau on your list before you arrive.

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Evening: Kuching Waterfront

After dinner, we walked along the Kuching Waterfront to the Darul Hana Bridge. The bridge lights up at night and gives you a clear view of the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building and the Astana across the river.

Vincent mentioned the bridge did not exist when he used to live here. Getting across the river required taking a small boat. Standing on a well-lit pedestrian bridge over the same river, looking at the same skyline from a different angle, was a genuinely nice moment.